Less road, more desert.

Morocco's most accessible great erg: how to get there, how much time to allow and who it suits.

The remote erg beyond the Draa Valley: off-road access, fewer people and more logistics.

Palm groves, kasbahs and modest dunes: the closest of the classic desert gateways to Marrakech.

The ksar of Aït Ben Haddou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the gateway to the south beyond the High Atlas.

Accessibility versus remoteness: how to choose between Morocco's two great ergs.

Big dunes versus a shorter drive: what you gain and lose with each option.

The stony desert near Marrakech versus the Sahara dunes: expectations and time.

What a short desert trip from Marrakech really involves, and sensible alternatives.

The classic route over the High Atlas, via Aït Ben Haddou and the Dades and Todra valleys to Erg Chebbi.

The one-way crossing over the High Atlas, through Merzouga and up the Ziz Valley to Fez.

Through the Middle Atlas, Midelt and the Ziz Valley: the desert approach from the north.

Over the High Atlas and along the Draa Valley to M'Hamid, then the track to the dunes.

The real trade-offs of driving yourself versus booking an organised tour.

Mountain passes, police checkpoints and a realistic driving pace heading south.

Summer heat, cold winter nights, wind and Atlas snow: how to choose your season.

From basic tents to luxury camps: what to really expect from a night in the dunes.

A practical list: layers for cold nights, sun protection and the essentials for a night in the dunes.

Festivals, fairs and major desert races in southern Morocco by season, with dates only when officially confirmed.